The eggplant, a member of the deadly nightshade family, is a vegetable of dubious origin. Some say it originated in China some 4000 years ago, then was introduced into the Mideast by Arab traders in the 8th century. Others say it originated and was domesticated in India, then brought home by members of Arab armies in the 7th century. Others yet say it has been grown and eaten as a vegetable in Iran since 1500 BC.

One of the oldest references to it occurred in China in the 5th century, when it was recorded on a scroll that Chinese ladies of fashion made a black dye from eggplant to stain their teeth--which, after polishing, shone like silver.

Little known in the ancient Mediterranean world, it was introduced into Spain and North Africa in the Middle Ages by Arab traders. Spanish explorers then carried it to the New World. It did not arrive in France as the glorious aubergine (from the Arabic al-badhinan) until the 17th century.